A Mezcal producer is a Mexican master distiller specialising in the elaboration of Mezcal, an agave spirit benefiting from a Denominacion de Origen (DO) that authorises the use of over 30 different agave species, unlike Tequila which is limited to blue Weber agave alone. Mezcal is produced primarily in the state of Oaxaca, but also in seven other Mexican states recognised by the DO. It is a profoundly artisanal spirit, linked to Mexican indigenous communities and millennia-old know-how.
The Mezcal producer, often called maestro mezcalero, is a craftsman who keeps alive pre-Hispanic production traditions. The diversity of agaves used, the cooking of pinas in underground pits over wood fire, and distillation in rustic clay or copper stills give Mezcal a complexity and authenticity that few spirits in the world can match.
Mezcal is the oldest form of agave spirit. Long before Tequila, the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples of Oaxaca were distilling agaves in primitive stills from the 16th century, after the introduction of distillation techniques by the Spanish conquistadors. The fermentation of agave as pulque had already been practised for millennia before the Conquest.
For centuries, Mezcal remained an exclusively local and artisanal production, consumed during ceremonies, religious festivals and rites of passage in Oaxacan communities. Its reputation as a spirit "of the poor", produced under rudimentary conditions, kept it long in the shadow of the more industrial Tequila.
It was in the 1990s-2000s that Mezcal began attracting the attention of spirits enthusiasts worldwide, seduced by its smoky complexity and its cultural and ethnobotanical dimension. The creation of the Consejo Regulador del Mezcal (CRM) in 1994 structured the industry. Today Mezcal is one of the fastest-growing spirits in the world.
Mezcal production begins with the harvest of wild or cultivated agave. Some species such as Tobala or Tepeztate grow only in the wild and take 15 to 25 years to reach maturity. Harvesting these rare agaves is an act of environmental responsibility that commits producers to a sustainability approach.
The pinas are cooked in underground pits lined with volcanic stones, covered with agave fibres and earth, and heated over wood fire for 3 to 5 days. It is this pit cooking that gives Mezcal its characteristic smoky notes, very different from the peat smoke of whisky. After milling with the tahona (stone wheel pulled by a horse or donkey), the pulp is fermented in open air in wooden or agave-skin vats.
Double distillation is traditionally carried out in clay stills (ollas de barro) or copper, depending on local traditions and states. Each region, each village and each maestro mezcalero has their own style, traditions and agave repertoire. This diversity is one of Mezcal's greatest riches.
According to data from the Consejo Regulador del Mezcal (CRM):
Approximately 10 million litres of certified Mezcal produced in 2022 — CRM
Over 700 Mezcal brands registered — CRM, 2023
Oaxaca represents over 85% of total certified Mezcal production — CRM
The United States absorbs approximately 75% of Mezcal exports — CRM
Over 30 agave species authorised in certified Mezcal production — CRM
Industrial Mezcal — mechanised production, stainless steel still, accessible and consistent style
Artisanal Mezcal — pit cooking, tahona milling, wooden vat fermentation, copper still distillation
Ancestral Mezcal — most traditional methods, clay olla distillation, ultra-limited production
Espadin Mezcal — cultivated Espadin agave, most common species, base of most Mezcals
Tobala Mezcal — rare wild agave, 12 to 15 years growth, fruity and complex profile
Tepeztate Mezcal — wild agave, 20 to 25 years growth, very unique herbaceous and mineral profile
Cuishe / Madrecuixe Mezcal — wild Karwinskii family agave, distinctive vegetal and floral notes
Ensamble — blend of several agave species in the same distillation, maximum complexity
Mezcal faces a major sustainability challenge. The strong growth in world demand threatens certain wild agave species whose natural reproduction is very slow. Species such as Tepeztate or Tobala are under pressure from excessive harvesting. Responsible producers are investing in the cultivation and reforestation of wild agaves to preserve this irreplaceable resource.
The gentrification of Mezcal is a sensitive issue in producing communities. The influx of foreign capital and urban investors into the industry has caused prices to explode and created tensions with traditional maestros mezcaleros who see their know-how captured without fair benefit for their communities. The fair trade movement and community certifications are attempting to rebalance these power relations.
Finally, geographical diversification is a strong trend. While Oaxaca remains dominant, states such as Guerrero, San Luis Potosi, Durango and Zacatecas are developing their own mezcalero traditions with distinct agaves and styles that considerably enrich the diversity of this category.
Del Maguey — Oaxaca, Mexico
Monte Lobos — Oaxaca, Mexico
Ilegal Mezcal — Oaxaca, Mexico
Wahaka — San Baltazar Guelavila, Oaxaca, Mexico
Banhez — San Juan del Rio, Oaxaca, Mexico
Alipus — San Baltazar Chichicapam, Oaxaca, Mexico
Tosba — Santa Maria Albarradas, Oaxaca, Mexico
Siembra Metl — Oaxaca, Mexico
Vida Mezcal — Santiago Matatlan, Oaxaca, Mexico
Union Mezcal — Oaxaca, Mexico
La Luna — Guerrero, Mexico
Crane Mezcal — San Luis Potosi, Mexico
San Cosme — Santiago Matatlan, Oaxaca, Mexico
Yola Mezcal — Oaxaca, Mexico
Venenoso — Oaxaca, Mexico
La Ventura — San Marcos Tlapazola, Oaxaca, Mexico
Cuentacuentos — Oaxaca, Mexico
Los Trompos — Santiago Matatlan, Oaxaca, Mexico
Encinas Mezcal — Durango, Mexico
La Casa del Maguey — Oaxaca, Mexico
Papalote — Guerrero, Mexico
Hamdan — Oaxaca, Mexico
Punta Maguey — Oaxaca, Mexico
Quiero Mas — Oaxaca, Mexico
Mezcal Zacatecas — Zacatecas, Mexico
Mezcal Union — Oaxaca, Mexico
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