INAO and classification
The National Institute for Origin and Quality (INAO) is the body responsible for classifying French products. It assists producers with the certification process and then conducts regular inspections to verify whether products continue to meet the criteria for this official designation of origin and quality. The INAO is also responsible for promoting the various designations and is committed to protecting terroirs, both nationally and internationally. It covers all agricultural and agri-food products, but here we will focus solely on wine-related labels.
France currently has approximately 360 wine AOCs, making it the country with the most extensive and structured appellation system in the world.
There are two categories in the classification system: wines without a geographical indication and wines with a geographical indication. The former, previously known as "table wines," are not subject to any requirements regarding yields or grape varieties. Often made from blends, they may list the grape varieties used on the label, provided there are no more than two. Depending on their origin, they may bear the designation "vin de France" or "vin de la Communauté Européenne." The latter category includes two major labels: the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) and the Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP).
The AOC was created in 1935 by a decree-law aimed at guaranteeing the origin of wine following numerous crises in the wine industry (at the end of the 19th century). The decree specifically approves the appellation's specifications and the demarcation of the geographical area. Initially reserved exclusively for the wine sector, it wasn't until 1990 that the AOC was extended to agricultural and agri-food products.
An Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée derives its authenticity and distinctiveness from its geographical origin. It is "the expression of an intimate link between a product and its terroir," according to the INAO. The geographical area can be defined based on several factors: its geology, its history, or its climate. In addition to this characteristic, there are other determining criteria. More closely related to human factors, these criteria pertain specifically to production conditions. These include grape varieties, maximum yield, vine pruning, the minimum permitted alcohol content, cultivation and winemaking methods, and the results of organoleptic tests. It is this set of strict limitations that makes the AOC the highest standard of quality.
Like the AOP — the European equivalent of the French AOC for dairy and agri-food products, excluding viticulture — the IGP stems from a European desire to expand the system of identifying products by origin. It has been applicable to wines since 2009, when it replaced the "vins de pays" designation.
AOC and AOP: What's the Difference? The AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) is the French designation, managed by the INAO. The AOP (Appellation d'Origine Protégée) is its European equivalent, applicable to dairy and agri-food products excluding wine. For wine, the AOC is the standard in France.
Here, not all stages of production necessarily take place within the geographical area, but they are strongly linked to that territory and its reputation. Grape varieties are selected by decree, and a maximum yield is set. As with wines without a geographical indication, identification by grape variety is also possible. There are three types of IGP: departmental, zone, or regional. The link between the product and its origin is certainly weaker than that of the AOC. But it is sufficient to confer a characteristic or reputation on a product.
This hierarchy of origin and quality for French products represents both fair competition for producers and a certified origin for consumers. However, while reassuring, it is not the only path to follow. Some winemakers do not hesitate to leave an AOC to free themselves from certain regulations deemed too strict and produce atypical wines.
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