The great challenge of wine tasting lies in knowing how to express the sensations a wine provides. The analysis of perceived aromas and textures is above all personal. However, it is essential to know the fundamentals of tasting in order to best express one's feelings — what makes us love a wine or not.
Before even starting, there are a few points to consider to facilitate learning. The choice of glass is very important. Avoid glasses that are too narrow and do not benefit from a large surface area of contact with air. "Tulip" glasses have precisely this capacity. They encourage the expression of aromas and trap them in the narrower upper part: the "rim". If the glass is impregnated with residual odours — generally due to storage conditions — simply rinse it with a small amount of wine before beginning.
The tasting will proceed more easily in a well-lit place, free from odours and extreme temperatures. A wine that is too cold will not release its aromas. Conversely, a glass that is too warm will cause rapid evaporation and destroy volatile aromas. It is therefore advisable to hold the glass by the stem so that the hand does not warm the contents. Finally, prefer tasting before a meal, when your senses are most alert.
The first step is the analysis of the wine's robe — its visual appearance. By tilting the glass, preferably over a white surface, one can examine its clarity. A wine may be hazy or cloudy. This can reveal the level of filtration or even a sign of disease in the case of a cloudy appearance. By looking at the liquid at the edge of the glass, one can assess its brilliance — its ability to reflect light or, on the contrary, to remain matt.
Then comes the colour and its nuances. These primarily indicate the wine's evolution. A young white wine will range from yellow with green reflections, while an older one will oscillate between gold and straw, or even amber for sweet wines. A young red will display a red colour or violet reflections, while an older one will be closer to cherry or brick red. One can also qualify the intensity of the colour, which may be pale, dark, deep or opaque — from which one deduces the wine's concentration or maturity. Finally, the droplets on the wall of the glass, also called tears or legs: their speed and thickness indicate the alcohol concentration. The slower and thicker they are, the higher the alcohol content.
The olfactory examination comprises two steps. The first nose, without swirling the wine, allows one to determine whether the wine is clean or has a fault. At this moment one perceives the first aroma families. The second nose, after swirling the wine to oxygenate it, allows one to plunge the nose deeper and identify the fragrances more precisely.
Wine aromas are divided into several families:
Fruity — Citrus (lemon, grapefruit), green fruit (apple, pear), stone fruit (peach), red fruit (cherry, redcurrant, strawberry, raspberry), black fruit (blueberry, blackberry, blackcurrant), exotic fruit (pineapple, passion fruit, lychee, mango)
Floral — Rose, acacia, honeysuckle, violet, hawthorn, camomile
Mineral — Flint, chalk, iodine
Vegetal — Grass, hay, fern, green pepper, blackcurrant bud
Spiced — Ginger, cinnamon, clove, pepper, nutmeg
Amylic — Boiled sweets, banana, nail varnish
Fermentary — Brioche, pastry, biscuit, bread crumb, yeast
Lactic — Fresh butter, yoghurt, milk
Fruity — Dried fruit (walnut, hazelnut, raisin, fig, prune, almond), stone fruit (apricot)
Vegetal — Undergrowth, mushroom, truffle, humus
Empyreumatic — Toast, grilled, smoked, cocoa, tobacco
Animal — Fur, leather, game
Chemical — Petrol, glue, varnish, solvent
Woody — Pine, cedar, resin, vanilla
Spiced — Ginger, cinnamon, clove, pepper, nutmeg
This classification is not exhaustive and is the subject of much debate. The essential thing here is, above all, to succeed in naming the fragrances perceived. This can notably help assess a wine's ageing potential.
The gustatory analysis allows one to identify the basic flavours such as acidity, sweetness, bitterness and saltiness (rarer), as well as the length on the palate or aromatic persistence. To do this, place a small amount of wine in the hollow of the tongue and roll it around. When the wine reaches the lips, draw in a thin stream of air to diffuse the aromas throughout the mucous membranes of the mouth. This technique also facilitates retro-olfaction: analysis by exhaling air through the nose.
Three stages are distinguished. The attack, when the wine enters the mouth, produces sweet sensations brought by sugar or alcohol. The mid-palate will reveal acidic sensations or possible astringency: a drying of the mucous membranes at the gum line. Finally, the finish defines the aromatic persistence. This time during which aromas linger, once the wine has been spat out, is measured in caudalies: a "virtual" unit of measurement where each caudalie equals one second.
The important thing here is to analyse the harmony of the wine. The balance between acidity and softness for a white, or acidity, softness and tannins for a red, is paramount. A great wine is determined by its balance, its aromatic complexity and its ability to express its terroir and grape varieties.
The gustatory examination also allows one to detect a possible fault. This may be the famous cork taint, which affects 2 to 3% of bottles. A lack of grape maturity or an excess of stems will be reflected by aromas of green pepper and leaf. Fragrances of onion and sulphur will indicate reduction and excess sulphite. And finally, oxidation will be characterised by notes of vinegar, glue and solvent.
Regular practice is recommended to refine your senses. The most effective technique remains the use of a tasting notebook to more easily remember wines that have moved you, describe your sensations and share them with those around you.
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